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Ciencia cosmética aplicada al desarrollo de productos – 27 de mayo al 31 de mayo

Gracias a la nueva alianza estratégica entre la Universidad de Rutgers, “The State University of New Jersey”. y ACCYTEC Regional Bogotá presentamos por primera vez en Latinoamérica el curso:

Ciencia Cosmética aplicada al desarrollo de productos

 


 

Objetivo: Ofrecer una inmersión en conceptos científicos que soporten el diseño de productos de “leave-on”, “rinse-off” y la aplicación de fragancias a productos cosméticos.

 


 

  • Cursos que pertenecen al Master of Business and Science de la Universidad de Rutgers editados especialmente para Latinoamérica.
  • Dictado por los mismos Profesores de la Universidad Rutgers.
  • Duración 40 horas.
  • “Certification of completion” emitido por la Universidad de Rutgers.
  • Certificado de asistencia emitido por Accytec

 

El curso será dictado por los profesores Robert Fuller y Ricardo Diez, docentes adjuntos del “Rutgers Professional Science Master’s Program”.


Docentes


Ricardo Diez

Ha trabajado durante más de cuatro décadas en diferentes empresas como Procter & Gamble, Dial, Chanel, Stepan, Witco y Hunstman, teniendo patentes en los campos de síntesis de materiales y de nuevas tecnologías para productos acabados.

Es Profesor Asociado de la Universidad Rutgers (Nueva Jersey) en el programa ‘Master of Business and Science’, donde imparte un curso avanzado de ciencia cosmética aplicada al desarrollo de productos. También imparte cursos para la IFSCC y la SCC sobre nuevas  materias primas y tecnologías. Igualmente es miembro del consejo editorial de la revista ‘China Detergents and Cosmetics’.

 

Robert Fuller

Ha trabajado durante mas de 30 años en la industria cosmética y en la de fragancias. Doctor en fisicoquímica en la Universidad de Princeton en 1990 y ha trabajado en Colgate-Palmolive, Johnson & Johnson, Firmenich y Fragrance Manufacturing Inc..

Actualmente es profesor en varias instituciones en la zona este de los Estados Unidos, tales como Muhlenberg College in Pensilvania, Rutgers University en Nueva Jersey y el Fashion Institute of Technology en Nueva York, donde da cursos de la química de fragancias y de productos cosméticos. Igualmente está trabajando en un proyecto de investigación en el Muhlenberg College sobre un modelo cinético de liberación de fragancias.


Ciencia Cosmética aplicada al desarrollo de productos

Semana de inmersión científica en Bogotá, Colombia

Inicia:       Lunes 27 de mayo de 2019

Finaliza:    Viernes 31 de mayo de 2019

Horario:     9 am – 1 pm y 2 pm – 6 pm

Lugar:     Sede Accytec Bogotá, Calle 106 # 49 B – 22


Valor Inscripción:

Asociado:   USD 1.000

No Asociado:  USD 1.300

Requisitos: Formación profesional en farmacia, biología, química, química industrial o ingeniería química. Mínimo dos años de experiencia en la industria.


Para garantizar su cupo, favor confirmar su asistencia al correo electrónico: comercial@accytec.org.co y/o a los números 3166918034 – (1) 2561682


Programa

UNIVERSIDAD DE RUTGERS ACCYTEC CAPÍTULO BOGOTÁ

Ciencia cosmética aplicada al desarrollo de productos”

Bogotá, 27 al 31 de mayo

 

  1. RINSE-OFF AND LEAVE-ON

This course is divided into two main cosmetic categories: “rinse-off and leave-on” products. The course addresses three distinct but interconnected topics:  raw materials, technologies (ie, synergistic interaction of raw materials), and the application of the technologies to product development and formulation.

The course teaches real cosmetic science presented in a very practical manner. Students already working in the industry will benefit immediately. The course adopts the mindset of the cosmetic scientist, not the empirical formulator.

The course will also provide additional knowledge to develop and formulate products outside of the ones studied.

Course Outline

Introduction, Technical and Market Reviews

-Integrated learning: raw materials, technologies and formulations.  Current state of knowledge in the industry

-Product consumer benefits based on science and technology vs. marketing puffery and ‘empty trends”. Are natural cosmetic products real or fake?

—————-

-Fundamental chemical reactions for material synthesis. Chemistry vs. INCI names.

  

PART 1: Rinse-Off Products 

Materials

-Primary and secondary surfactants. Effect of physical-chemistry of surfactants on properties and applications. Synergistic and antagonistic interactions.

-Commodity surfactants for mass market products. Specialty surfactants for specialized/prestige cleansers. Sulfate-Free products: Marketing claims vs. real benefits.

-Environmental aspects. Reality check for renewable materials. Biodegradation and its measurements. 1,4 Dioxane.

-Polymers for condition and thickening/suspending

-Silicones for hair care and emollients for skin care

-Additives and adjuvants

 

Fundamental Cleansing Technologies 

-Mannheimer effect.  Cleansing, lathering and mildness control via mixed micelles.

-Lochhead effect: Definition, mechanism and its application to skin and hair deposition for conditioning benefits.

-Key patents

 

Advanced Technologies

-Skin cleansing. Mechanism of skin irritation and dryness. Advance technologies to reduce/eliminate irritation/dryness. Cleansing technologies for skin hydration vis structured liquids.

-Hair shampooing. Lipid removal by shampoos. Advance coacervate formation, and control of hair surface energy for better silicone deposition with unique crystalline structures.  Deposition of hair benefiting agents via lamellar systems.

-Key patents

 

Formulations

-Body washes (from basic to skin benefiting).

-Shampoos (from basic to hair benefiting).  Anti-dandruff and baby shampoos

-Facial cleansers (from basic to advanced) and makeup removers,

-Liquid hand cleansers

-FDA controlled products.           

 ————————

 

PART 2: Leave-On Products 

Materials 

Emollients

Carbon based: From hydrocarbons to polyesters. The physical and chemical structures as key for sensoriality, compatibility and stability.

-Silicone based: From volatile materials to powdery polymers. A simplified view of their complex structures.

Emulsifiers:

-Emulsifiers as specialized surfactants. The balance of their two distinct structural portions.

-Main families: anionic, nonionic, crypto-anionic, discrete and oligomeric.

-Importance of size, shape and melting point on performance properties.

Polymers for thickening/suspending, and for emulsification and thickening/suspending

Additives and adjuvants

 

 Technologies

Emulsions as the Fundamental Cosmetic Vehicle 

-Uniqueness of cosmetic emulsions vs other types of emulsions.

-What Gibbs equation tell us about making emulsions in general.

A new approach to make cosmetic emulsions. How to control and predict key sensorial properties.

-“Seeing” the internal structures of cosmetic emulsions with microscopy, DSC and XRD.

-Key scientific and technology papers

-Anhydrous and water based solutions, non-emulsion gels, suspensions, solid systems

 

Formulations

-Model emulsions with diverse sensorial properties. Specific formulations ranging from light lotions to heavy creams. Hand creams. Eye Gels. The key P&G Olay patent.

-Non-emulsion formulations: oils, serums, gels and solids

-Formulation review of classic skin care products and current best sellers. Mass market and prestige brands.

-Silicone based formulations

 

The Delivery of Actives

-Efficacy of cosmetic products containing actives. The delivery of the right active, in the right amount, and in the right skin layer.

-Delivery of water and oil soluble active from oil solutions, non-emulsion gels and emulsions.

 

  1. FRAGRANCE APPLICATIONS

I — Introduction / Fragrance Industry

-History of Fragrances

-Pyramid Structure

-Fragrance Houses and Brief Process

-Perfumers

 

II—Olfaction

-Biology and Shape Model of Olfactive Receptors

-Olfactive Space – Classification of Odors

-Olfactometry, Odor Thresholds, Adaptation, identification of Mixtures

 

III—Fragrance Raw Materials (Perfumers Palette)

-Terpene Chemistry and Nomenclature

-Manufacturing Methods

-Aliphatics (Aldehydes, Esters, Ketones, etc.)

-Aromatics, Woods, Musks

 

IV—Natural Ingredients

-Essential Oils: Most Common, Different Sources

-Extraction Methods: Steam, Solvent, CO2 Supercritical

-Issues with Naturals:  Adulteration, Variability, Allergenicity

 

V—Analysis

-Competitive Product Analysis

-Gas Chromatographic Techniques

-Sensorial Techniques:  Triangle Test, Trained Experts

– Quality Control

 

VI—Physical Properties

-Vapor Pressure and Evaporation Process

-Fixative and Non-Ideal Interactions

-Blotter Evaluation

-LogP and Solubility

 

VII—Fine Fragrance

-Alcoholic Solutions vs Fragrance Oil

-Complexity of Fragrance Formulas

-Maceration and Product Concerns

-Trickle Down Effect

 

VIII—Stability

-Key Reactions: Oxidation, Hydrolysis and Ketal Formation

-Discoloration and Color Shifting (Schiff Base, etc.)

-Accelerated Aging and Its Limitations

-Solubility and Viscosity Issues

-Magic Bullets

-Microemulsions

 

IX—Malodor

-Typical Malodors (Body, Kitchen)

-Bacterial Production of Body Odors

-Zwaardemaker Pairs and Mixtures – Blocking Receptors

-Neutralization Myth

 

IX—Delivery Systems

-Fragrance Deposition on Hair and Skin

-Consumer Signal of Efficacy

-Encapsulation Methods and Performance (Spray Dried, Melamine, etc.)

-Cyclodextrins

-Profragrances

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